意大利时尚只有豪华、性感和皮草？这些新晋潮牌颠覆了我们的印象！

米兰具有世界半数以上的著名时装品牌，是阿玛尼、范思哲、PRADA、杜嘉班纳、华伦天奴等世界顶级服装的大本营，也是全球设计师向往的地方。

米兰女装周是全球时尚界最引人注视的时刻：超过170场时装秀与静态展现在这里举行。

很久以来，我们1直以为意大利时尚的关键词是阿玛尼的西装软剪裁，是Gucci与Versaci 的性感裙子，是Prada女王般的盛气凌人，是DOLCE&GABBANA的西西里风情，或是Valentino的高贵典雅。

直到近几年这几个潮牌出现，重新定义了我们对“意大利时尚”与“潮”的印象。除大家熟习的品牌Moschino, 在米兰时装周发布的MSGM与No.21是最最有趣、充满活力与欣喜的品牌。

品牌小贴士

订做工作服北京
MSGM是由意大利设计师Massimo Giorgetti于2008年创建的品牌，品牌以充满玩味的方式将传统款式重新演绎。

MSGM将各式平常衣饰以醒目印花图案实现随心愉悦的搭配，品牌专注艳丽亮色、前卫印花与有趣廓型令爱玩的年轻人疯狂。

品牌的两位设计师€€€€Massimo Giorgetti 和另外一位宁愿留在幕后的设计师都是30岁左右的年轻人。Massimo Giorgetti曾的职业是音乐DJ，音乐成为灵感来源之1。

迷幻的数码印花和旖旎亮色正是MSGM快速成功的秘密。

Massimo Giorgetti如今还是Emilio Pucci的品牌创意总监，Pucci一样是1个以色采和印染著称的品牌。

MSGM曾被《Vogue》誉为“最好新锐设计师品牌”之1。

品牌目前在全球500个品牌集合店销售，其中之外国市场为主。

MSGM 2018 Fall Ready-to-Wear

这场发布会像是Massimo Giorgetti 写给自己故乡米兰的情书，使米兰自Gucci 到 Marni，再到 Versace以后重新站回了世界时尚之都的巅峰。

When was the last time Milan was hot? Like, really, really hot? Was it circa 2004 when Tom Ford sent out his Gucci swansong on a bed or white rose petals? Or further back in the late ’90s when Gianni Versace was at his acme? Fashion historians can argue the dates, but this much is true, from Gucci to Marni to Versace, in 2018, Milan is on the upswing again. MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti has noticed. His new collection was a love letter to his hometown. In a season when logos and slogans continue to dominate the conversation at this mid-tier price point, Giorgetti’s tribute to popular local hangouts€€Cucchi, Bar Basso, and Jamaica, among others, on intarsia sweaters and team scarves€€seemed earnest and true.

发布会由1系列的黑色服装开始，以致敬米兰90年代的极简主义。

His ode to Milan didn’t stop there. The collection began with a group of all-black looks, which he said was a tribute to the city’s minimalist ’90s days. A black-and-white photo of Anna Dello Russo before she was a street style star was the avatar of this section. Head-to-toe black is a departure for Giorgetti, but he compensated for the show’s somewhat dour beginning with a finale series of collectible silk pajama sets in logo, souvenir, and清溪工作服
animal prints.

紧接着，跃入视野的便是各式各样的潮牌元素：Céline般的安全绑带、Vetements般的退色牛仔与过膝靴...... 最引人注视的是印上Logo的毛衣和围巾，和MSGM标志性的配色。

In between, he touched on trending items seen elsewhere, like security blankets clutched between forearm and torso (Céline) and faded, baggy blue jeans and thigh-hugging over-the-knee boots (Vetements). That’s standard practice at contemporary brands, and Giorgetti’s lifting was less flagrant than that of other designers we’ve seen this season. The best part of this collection were those bar logo sweaters and scarves. It really does pay to listen to your heart.

品牌小贴士

2009年，设计师亚历山德罗€€戴拉夸(Alessandro Dell'Acqua)丢掉了他的个人同名品牌的注册商标，于2010年创建了1个新的女装品牌€€€€No.21。

听说，“21”是他的荣幸数字，由于他的生日是12月21日。

从2010秋冬亮相，它极简的造型与新颖的穿工作服上下班
色采冲撞搭配，就立即成了炙手可热的潮牌。

NO 21的设计走的是守旧线路，玩着极简主义的拿手好戏。柔软和刚硬混合得恰到好处，在现今流行娘man混搭的年代特别受欢迎。又也许是由于先有了这些勇于打破边界的时尚先驱，大家才发现，原来时尚还可以这么玩呢？！

No.21 2018 Fall Ready-to-Wear

Alessandro Dell’Acqua的秀场像是1场舞台演出的氛围：1位战后的鼓手小姐在游行结束以后走在回家的路途中，身上裹着她男朋友的大衣。

Alessandro Dell’Acqua started with a mood board mise-en-scène: a postwar majorette on her way home after some parade, wrapped up in her boyfriend’s parka. Thus armed with the seed of an idea, he threw it up into the air and watched it twirl, whirl, twist, and flourish every which way.

设计师展现出迷人的创意、节奏感与精确的剪裁，女性的柔美与阳刚的调性并存。

This designer has a reliably appealing creative rhythm that counters precision cutting with a yen for the sumptuous and feminine: tonight an injection of masculinity provided an enriching backbeat.Slouchily cut wide pants in cotton with check side stripes were played against plaid shirts and jackets with slick black leather or crystal-pocked fringing. Tight knit tanks decorated with the silhouettes of majorettes mid-march stepped against lace pants and stacked brothel creepers. A really fugly gold-soled white sneaker played bass to light mid-length skirts studded with eyelets, ruched opera gloves, and fur throws. There were plenty of layered slip dresses with flashes of gold and crystal.

As Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Game” played its concluding tortured chorus, that boyfriend faded into the background thanks to a series of sequin dresses and skirts stitched with sparkling landscapes of Las Vegas’s lights by night. The last look was a black-fronted, olive-backed felt majorette minidress decorated with palm-pattern crystals, after which Dell’Acqua himself sauntered out to his own easy tempo.

总之，No.21这1季每个Look都潮得刚恰好，功力深厚，容易驾驭又不会看起来用力过猛粘贴袖口工作服
，1下子使意大利年轻了几10岁！

注：图片来自于网络

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